The 2021 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru, whose illustrious pedigree did not preclude it from frost damage, nevertheless has a distinctive nose that seems anomalous to d'Angerville's other crus: darker fruit, much more marine- influenced, to the point where you would imagine there might be stems (it is 100% de- stemmed like the other crus). The palate is very well structured, edgier than the Champans, more saline with modest grip towards the slightly saturnine finish. This will require 3-4 years in bottle. Excellent, somehow a bit... enigmatic.