The finest of the Nuits Premiers Crus, Les St.-Georges, adjoins Les Cailles, at its northerly boundary. Although broadly similar in soil type to Vaucrains, the wine has a much more soft, fleshy character, with plenty of plump fruit from 75-year-old vines. Robert's Les St.-Georges is usually as good a Nuits as you can hope to find - a big, fleshy item, with bags of fruit, great concentration and overriding class. Not perhaps the unbri-dled aristocracy of a Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru, but rather a well-covered courtesan who has gone in for a little body-building - and all the more attractive for it!