Drop-dead gorgeous and utterly delicious, this dazzling, fragrant red opens with heady aromas of iris, forest berry, new leather and culinary spice. The elegantly structured, focused palate features juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, cinnamon and star anise before a savory, almost salty close. Firm, refined tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it energized and beautifully balanced. Drink 2026-2038.

Brovia's 2018 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione opens with pretty aromatics that are such a signature of this site. Crushed flowers, mint, tobacco, cedar and sweet red cherry lend quite a bit of perfume. On the palate, the Rocche is a bit light, but it offers good balance and a fine sense of proportion within the context of the year. It's hard to get past the short, abrupt finish. The charm and seduction of Rocche are missing.