Le Claux is sourced from a Grenache-dominant field blend, with vines dating back to 1870. Vinified in whole clusters and matured in 20% new oak, it's a penetrating, finessed wine that juxtaposes rippling black cherry and boysenberry flavors against veins of crushed salt, licorice and smoke. Chalky tannins and a spray of violet perfume a long finish. It's stunning in youth but should improve through 2035.

Glistening ruby color. There are powerful, spice- and mineral-accented aromas of red fruit preserves, cherry-cola, succulent flowers and exotic spices on the highly perfumed nose. Palate-coating Chambord, kirsch, candied lavender and star anise flavors deepen steadily as the wine gains air. It manages to be both powerful and lithe, showing serious intensity and fine detail on a strikingly long, youthfully tannic and mineral-laced finish. Aged in 20% new oak.

Quite ripe, with waves of warmed plum sauce and blackberry preserves rolling through, wrapped liberally with licorice root, sage and lavender notes. Iron minerality runs through the finish, letting the fruit and savory notes meld wonderfully. Built for the cellar. Best from 2022 through 2035.

Coming from a site just across the road from the Hominis Fides vineyard, the 2018 Gigondas Le Claux was not destemmed and was brought up mostly in used, larger barrels. Beautifully Provençal notes of black raspberries, camphor, flowery incense, and peppery spice emerge from the glass, and this beauty is reminds me of a Grand Cru Red Burgundy on the palate with its seamless, elegant, layered texture. It's not a blockbuster like the 2016 and 2017 yet shines for its complex aromatics and flawless balance. It also has more than enough structure to evolve for two decades.