Fragrant and loaded with finesse, this beauty opens with heady scents of woodland berry, new leather, violet, spice and the barest whiff of truffle. The full-bodied, delicious palate features juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice before a long licorice close. Bright acidity and taut but ultrarefined tannins provide seamless support. Drink 2026-2038.

The 2018 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia is one of the better wines in this range. There is good definition and reasonable balance, in the attenuated style of this vintage. Dark cherry, leather, spice, tobacco, dried herbs and lavender lend nuance. Like all of the Brovia 2018s, the Brea is light in body and structure, with modest persistence and a relatively short finish.