The 2017 Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu 1er Cru was opened by Dominique Lafon just because he wanted to compare with the ensuing two vintages. Who was I to stop him? It is very different in style from those vintages: redder fruit, more transparency, charming, and it wears its heart on its sleeve. The palate is full of slightly peppery red berry fruit, saline and spicy with good grip and a long raspberry and wild strawberry finish. So unbelievably drinkable, even at this early stage you'll finish bottle.