Fragrant and delicious, this opens with aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, blue flower, leather, underbrush and a whiff of French oak. The full-bodied, enveloping palate delivers baked plum, Marasca cherry, licorice and a note of espresso framed in fine-grained enveloping tannins that give it a smooth texture and a weightless finesse.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Fontodi is a wine of extreme elegance that shows how much the house style has evolved here. A decade ago, in a warm year the Fontodi Chianti Classico would have been opulent, but these days proprietor Giovanni Manetti seeks finesse more than power, and that is exactly what comes through here. Ripe red Sangiovese fruit, rose petal, blood orange and spice infuse this racy, exotic Chianti Classico with so much character. The 2017 spent two years in oak, half in cask and half in neutral oak. I loved it.

Ripe black cherry, blackberry, iron, juniper and thyme flavors mark this solidly built red. The balance walks the line between the rich profile and the assertive tannins that deliver grip on the long finish. Best from 2021 through 2032. 7,800 cases made, 2,800 cases imported.