Larkmead DR OLMO 2014
Shy and restrained upon opening, the 2014 Dr. Olmo has a compact core of black licorice, black cherry and forest floor. After an hour in the glass, however, the aromas become more secondary and poetic, displaying hints of candied orange rind and crushed, dried flowers. There is a lack of "juiciness" to the this wine; fruitfulness is not part of its perfume, a characteristic that is echoed in the flavors and the texture of the first sip. The build of this wine is one of its most alluring parts; while The Lark is sumptuous and round, and Solari is broad and deep, Dr. Olmo's texture feels almost weightless and ethereal. The wine dances on your palate, lightly coating each corner with its essence of dried rose, bramble, coffee beans and cigar tobacco. This is the most complex and nuanced, if understated, Cabernet in the Fall lineup. The natural style of the Dr. Olmo really responded well to 2014's vintage characteristics of freshness and energy, but though it appears inviting, the compact nature of its frame and its general agility will only become more graceful over the course of the next 10 years. Should you prefer to consume it upon release, we recommend opening the wine two hours before drinking, or to at least decant it. However, due to the wine's classic structure, another 5-10 years of cellaring will add to its depth and nuance.
Wine SpectatorA dense, sturdy effort, chewy and rough around the edges, making for a challenging entry, with a wall of oak and earthy tannins. Needs time. Best from 2021 through 2032. 1,418 cases made.