Paolo Bea Rosso de Veo 2015
|Region||Italy, Umbria, Montefalco|
This 2015 is Mike Tyson in his prime: potent, assertive, brazen, and making no concessions to polite society. Monstrous in its tannins, it nonetheless presents them in such a multifaceted way as to almost transcend their viselike grip; the tannins themselves have layers, offering classic sandalwood spice on one level, mineral-saturated depth-charge stoniness on another, and-most thrillingly-a direct, naked evocation of crunching into dripping-ripe berries. Four years of élévage did nothing to blunt this astonishing wine's unmitigated expression of freshly plucked grapes, and this is a monumental Rosso de Veo that should live for a very, very long time.